"We may lose and we may win, though we will never be here again" - The Eagles

While in Hanoi, we also spent a few days visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ha Long Bay! I know I have said this a few times already, but it might have been the most beautiful place I have been in my life. Ha Long Bay covers an area around 1,553 km2, including 1,960–2,000 islets, most of which are limestone.

We spent our first night in Halong Bay on a cruise ship floating through the limestone islands and soaking up the sun and the views.

 Beautiful view of Ha Long Bay from our cruise boat*

On our first night we took out some kayaks to watch the sun set over the limestone islands. It was breathtakingly beautiful and completely surreal. The water was so calm and easy to glide through.. much easier then kayaking through the rapids in Vang Vieng!

Our kayaks parked outside Hang Đầu Gỗ cave just before sunset*

Staying true to form, we also did some splunking. Hang Đầu Gỗ (Wooden stakes cave) is the largest grotto in the Hạ Long area. French tourists visited in the late 19th century, and named the cave Grotte des Merveilles. It has three large chambers which have tons of stalactites and stalagmites. 

 Splunking in Hang Đầu Gỗ cave in Ha Long Bay*

There are two bigger islands, Tuần Châu and Cat Ba, that have permanent inhabitants, as well as tourist facilities including hotels and beaches. There are a number of beautiful beaches on the smaller islands. On our second night in Ha Long Bay, we stayed on a much smaller private island. It was just about 30 people sleeping in huts on the beach with a bar, tiny kitchen, and a speed boat for tubing.

The private island we stayed at in Ha Long Bay*

Goodmorning Vietnam!!!!

I have spent the last little bit in Vietnam and I love love love it!!!! I had heard some horror stories about being ripped off and taken advantage of but so far these have all just been stories of past travellers... no personal experiences.. yes! 

My first stop in Vietnam was the capital, Hanoi. Under French rule, the French colonial architecture style became dominant and remains in Hanoi today with the tree-lined boulevards and its many villas and mansions, Grand Opera House, Saint Joseph Cathedral, and the historic Hotel Metropole.

Me and my Cambodian room mates were reunited which was AMAZING!!! It was so great to see them after being apart for 3 weeks. Its amazing how close you become to people you are travelling with. 

Cathy, Lauren, me and Kim in Hanoi* 

Hoan Kiem Lake (meaning "Lake of the Returned Sword") is located in the historical center of Hanoi. The lake is one of the major scenic spots in the city and serves as a focal point for its public life. According to the legend, emperor Lê Lợi gave a magic sword called "Heaven's Will" which brought him victory in his revolt against the Chinese Ming Dynasty back to the Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui) in the lake. There is a Turtle Tower (Thap Rùa) standing on a small island near the centre of lake is linked to the legend. Along the side of Hoan Kiem Lake, there is a huge globe with an abnormally large Vietnam on it.

Globe along Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi*

Hanoi was selected as one of the top 10 cities for food in the world and Vietnam's national dish Phở has been named one of the top 5 streetfoods in the world. I agree with both of these!!!

View of the streets of Hanoi along the  Hoan Kiem Lake*

While in Hanoi, we also made a little visit to snake village. We got to play with some smaller-ish snakes, watch a cobra and Vietnamese man battle it out a bit, and then of course try some snake. It was delicious! We ate the meat, skin, bile, and a bit of the blood. Some people even tried the heart but Im not that brave. When in Vietnam, act as the Vietnamese do!

Kim with her little snake friend in snake village, Hanoi*

"But Baby it's cold outside..."

It's not cold like it is in Toronto, but it is veryyyy chilly up in Luang Prabang and I dont know how I feel about it. The days never really get hot and there is a cool breeze and at night time the days

Yesterday we went to the beautiful Kuang Si Falls. The falls begin in shallow pools atop a steep hillside that lead to the main drop with a 50m cascade.  

The main drop of Kuang Si Falls*

The water collects in numerous turquoise blue pools as it flows downstream which you are able to swim in. Because its so cold, we opted not to swim.

Turquoise blue pools of Kuang Si Falls* 

We also went to the Bear Rescue Centre in Luang Prabang. This place houses endangered Asiatic black bears which have been saved from poachers and traffickers. Also housed here is Phet, an Indo-Chinese tiger that was saved from a similar fate but we didn't get to see her.

Endangered Asiatic black bears*

There is love for Che Guevara even in Laos.
"Justice remains the tool of a few powerful interests; legal interpretations will continue to be made to suit the convenience of the oppressor powers" - Che Guevara

Che Guevara seat cover on somebody's motorbike* 

As always, Cathy and I had no problem finding some nice red wine. We came across this fantastic wine bar that was throwing a private birthday party so it was packed with nice food, interesting people and great music. I am very grateful I have found a friend who enjoy's red wine as much as I do.

The back of the wine menu*

"If you smile at me I will understand, cause that is something everybody everywhere does in the same language" - Crosby, Stills and Nash

Vang Vieng can't help but make you smile. Aside from the drunken fresh out of high school tourists stumbling around everywhere, the scenery and karst hill landscape surrounding the town might be the most beautiful things I have ever seen. 

Vang Vieng has become a backpacker-oriented town, with the main street featuring guest houses, bars, restaurants, internet cafes, tour agencies and western tourists. One of the main attractions of the town is the  tubing on the Nam Song River, which is lined with bars selling Beer Lao and cheap buckets of cocktails, and most places are equipped with rope swings, zip lines, and huge decks. I must admit that I cut my lip open going down the "slide of death". Pictures will come later when I get the film from my water proof camera developed. Yes, a real film from the most ghetto water proof camera ever created!

The caving opportunities that surround Vang Vieng is in one word, awesome. I love to splunk! We did a bit of jungle trekking to this one cave where we sat in tubes, sifted through water by pulling on ropes attached to the walls and guiding ourselves deeper into complete darkness.

A bit of jungle trekking on our way to splunk!

In total, it took abot 35 minutes to go through the entire cave and back. At some points the water was so shallow we had to get out of our tubes and walk. At one point, because we were the only people in there, our tour guide made Cathy and I turn off our head lamps and sit in the complete darkness, in the middle of the cave, with the bats flying above us and water snakes swimming below us, for one whole minute. It was terrifying to say the least but when you are in that situation you just do it - crazy not to!

Sitting in our tubes, in complete darkness, with our super cool head lamps on*

Sitting at the entrance to the cave trying not to hit our heads on the rocks*

Not being able to pass up the opportunity, we also treated ourselves to an amazing afternoon of kayaking down the Nam Song River. The view was almost surreal.

Vang Vieng is a very interesting place because it has literally been taken over by the youth. Drugs are very accessible and most bars sell happy/magic shakes and joints of all sorts. The restaurants are all equipped with couch-like tables and play "Friends" or "Family Guy" all day long... and I mean all day long! The bars along the river for tubing are fiercely competitive and give you free shots just for walking in, even in the morning! It was a weird environment to be around in one of the most beautiful areas of the world. Maybe just a bit more self control by the younger crowd would be nice :)

Lovely Laos: Vientaine*

We ventured a little farther from Phnom Penh and have been exploring the northern part of Laos. 

Some first impressions are: 

- it's more expensive

- the people arent as friendly

- there are no beggars on the streets

- drugs are sold in bars/restaurants

- the internet is dodgy

- the scenery and mountains are the most beautiful I have ever seen

Our first stop in Laos was the capital Vientaine. It's a beautiful city with a great relaxing atmosphere. Probably the oldest standing temple in Vientiane and among the most atmospheric is Wat Si Saket which was built in 1818.  In the centre of the courtyard is a five-tier-roofed sim (ordination hall) housing Buddha niches and beautiful but fading murals of the Buddha's past lives.

Wat Si Saket* 

Within the cloister walls are hundreds of niches housing Buddha images large and small, made of wood, stone, silver and bronze.

 Wat Si Saket* 

Next on our list was to see Haw Pha Kaew (because we LOVE temples!). Haw Pha Kaew is King Setthathirat's former royal temple, which housed the magical Emerald Buddha (pha kaew) after it was taken from Lanna (Chiang Mai). The Siamese took it back in 1779 and is now housed in Bangkok's Wat Phra Kaew. The present structure is a 1942 reconstruction of the Emerald Buddha but you aren't allowed to take pictures.

Haw Pha Kaew*

On our way to another attraction, we stumbled upon this much smaller temple where monks were performing blessings. Local people brought items of worship and gifts, and in return were given a blessing. 

Compared to the hectic, bustling capitals in other countries, Vientiane's relaxing atmosphere is wonderful. At the end of each day, it was very nice the to wander down to the riverside, relax on a patio and watch the sun set over the Mekong.

Nobody puts baby in the corner*

I was sitting in the waiting room of 'U and Me Spa' for Cathy to finish her pedicure when I came across this book. It is a real book... this is not a joke. 

Front cover of the book*

The entire book it about 20 pages long but you can get the gist of it from just reading the very last page.

The last page of the book*

Unbelievable! 

Amnesty International*

Today I went to an Amnesty International Press Conference on forced eviction in Cambodia. Cambodian women are increasingly at the forefront of the battle against a wave of forced evictions sweeping the country.“Eviction and resistance in Cambodia: Five women tell their stories” is a documentary that details, through first-hand testimony, the stories of Hong, Mai, Sophal, Heap and Vanny, women who have faced or continue to resist forced eviction from their homes and land.

In Cambodia, women are at the forefront of the fight against forced evictions. Many have taken the lead in their communities’ struggle for justice, putting themselves at risk to defend their communities. Tens of thousands of people have been forcibly evicted across Cambodia, in both rural and urban areas while Indigenous people face expulsion from their traditional land.

Mai, 48, a mother from the Province of Oddar Meanchey, in north-west Cambodia, was pregnant in 2009 when she watched her home go up in flames. Her house, possessions, clothes, all went up in smoke and nothing was left. Her house and 118 others in her village, Bos, were bulldozed and burned to the ground by 150 police, military, and others believed to be workers employed by a company that was granted a concession over a large swath of land, including Bos village, for a sugar plantation. In October 2009, Mai was imprisoned for eight months for violating forestry laws when she travelled to the capital Phnom Penh to complain to Hun Sen, the Prime Minister, about the eviction. She was released in June 2010, but only after signing an agreement to relinquish the rights to her land. She now has little to provide for herself and her eight children.

Mai with two other women - all victims of forced eviction* 

Rapid economic development within a newly privatized land market has seen an increase in forced eviction across Cambodia. Tens of thousands of people across Cambodia are unlawfully losing their homes because of the demands of big businesses. Forced eviction often leads to loss of possessions and livelihood, the break up of communities, and a deterioration of a family’s mental and physical well being.

Access to education and health services can be disrupted. Many victims of forced eviction receive inadequate compensation and are resettled in remote areas. Forced evictions violate a person’s right to adequate housing, and are banned under international human rights treaties to which Cambodia is a state party.